In culinary school I learned the correct way to prepare
pomme purée. Apparently it was such an important skill to master that they had us practice nearly every day, for weeks. It was a major component of our first ex
am. We had to cut the correct amount, in weight, of potatoes in even pieces, boil for the correct amount of time (in properly salted water), drain and dry before mashing. And we didn't mash them with a potato masher or stick them in a KitchenAid, we sent them through a food mill or tamis. They were smoother than baby food. Somewhere in there we'd mix them with (a measured amount of) hot cream and cold cubed butter, season and mix again, gently- so as not to form gluey potatoes, but enough so everything was evenly incorporated, and perfectly smooth, perfectly creamy, with the perfect balance of cream and butter, salt and white pepper.
I can appreciate this. It was our chef instructor's job to teach us to make everything perfect, everytime. But no one spends this much time on mashed potatoes- whatever you call them. I have worked in plenty of restaurants, and even the fancy ones rough chop their potatoes and boil the hell out of them, drain, stick in a huge electric mixing bowl, turn the motor on and add cream (usually straight from the carton) and butter.
I work with old people. They're no food critics- okay that's not entirely true. They have very strong opinions. And they will tell me exactly what they think. But they want good comfort food, like they used to make when they had kitchens, food their parents and grandparents used to make. They don't want
pomme purée, perfectly creamy and seasoned. Many of them watch their sodium intake, some of them think pepper (be it white or black) is too spicy.
So I make it simpler for them. I am usually crunched for time, and I often make these on a weekly basis. I took some basic techniques and tips from the gureling weeks of preparing
pomme purée in class, but I don't follow the teachings like the law. I peel and chop the potatoes up first thing, and as fast as I can, not worrying too much about their size. Put the cut potatoes into cold water right away so they don't oxidize and turn brown- this happens very quickly. Always start in cold water. I usually cut them straight into the pot I will be boiling them in, heavily salted, and leave it on the stove. I don't turn the heat on until about an hour before lunch service, that will give them a good 20-30 minutes to simmer away, and not have to be held hot too long. I put a pot of cream on the stove to heat up (it keeps the potatoes from cooling down), and wait. We have a KitchenAid at work, but it only has one speed: fast. I don't want hot potatoes all over the kitchen, so I use a good old fashioned hand masher (we don't have a food mill, potato ricer or tamis). I drain the soft potatoes in a colander, put them back in the empty, but still hot, pot they cooked in, and mash away. I add my butter, usually in cold cubes, then the hot cream, and some salt to taste. Occasionally I'll add roasted garlic, if I thought ahead of time and roasted some, or garlic powder- because it's easy and the old folk love it.
How ever I make it, I will get protests if it is not served accompanied with gravy. It doesn't matter what else goes on the plate- meatloaf, pan-seared chicken breasts, fish- they must have their gravy. This sometimes presents a problem. Gravy is a pan sauce made from the drippings of whatever animal you've cooked. I rarely have drippings to use. So I make the easiest cheater gravy ever. I would never admit this to my culinary classmates or instructors, but out in the field you have to find something that works. The residents love this "gravy," it's rich and thick and creamy. More of a b
échemel sauce with chicken or beef flavor- actually that's exactly what it is.
I heat up some milk, usually a small pot full. I always have pre-made roux on hand (equal parts butter and flour, by weight, melted in a pot and cooked for a little bit, stirring constantly, until fragrant and nutty, and no longer tastes like raw starch). Once the milk is nice and hot, I add some roux and
better than bouillon, to taste and whisk until thick and flavorful. Often I must readjust the amounts, more roux if it's not thick enough, more milk if it's too thick, more flavor, and I add crushed black pepper and freshly ground nutmeg, it give it a speckled from-scratch look.
When service comes, my residents are never disappointed by my mashed potatoes or gravy. I serve the mashers with a scoop (which I was told never to do in school, because it looks "so institutional") and press in a small ladle-full of gravy. It's the perfect amount for their small appetites, and it looks just right, considering where we are.
